The island Pemba, 48km northeast of Unguja, is Zanzibar’s forgotten half, traditionally conservative, religious and superstitious, and far removed from the Zanzibar mainstream. Measuring 67km from north to south and 22km from east to west ,Pemba’s highest point is no more than 100m above sea level, yet with its low hills gouged by gullies and entered by snaking mangrove-lined creeks, the island presents a lush and fertile profile compared to Unguja, and aptly fits the name given it by the Arab geographer Yakut ibn Abdallah al-Rumi (1179-1229) ,who called it Jazirat al-Khadhra ,the green Island-which holiday brochures have since changed to “Emerald Island”.

Not that you’ll find that many holiday brochures for Pemba: the island _ and its tourism potential –has long been ignored by Zanzibar’s Unguja-based government, and Pemba is, if anything, sinking ever deeper into poverty. Few people own land (most are tenants of the government), per capita income is Tanzania’s lowest, and child mortality among the country’s highest. Meanwhile ,the islands lamentable infrastructure continues to crumble away: roads are pitted with potholes,theres not a single working street light on the island, power cuts are a daily reality, and the water supply is more likely to be trucked in than arrive through pipes. Not surprisingly, Pemba is a stronghold of Zanzibar’s opposition party, the Civic United Front (CUF) ,support for which has only deepened Pemba’s marginalization .Since 1995,the outcome of all this has been a recurring cycle of political unrest and brutal repression, especially around election time-the next ones are due at the end of 2010.

Pemba has three main towns: the capital Chake Chake in the centre, Mkoani, the main port, in the south , and the livelier dhow harbour of Wete in the north.Theres not an awful lot to do in any of them, but they do contain most of Pembas accommodation and are good bases for exploring further afield. Rewarding stops include the primeval Ngezi Forest in the north: a scatter of tumbled down ruins that tell the story of much the Swahili coast; a handful of deserted, if difficult to access, beaches (part of their charm) ; beautiful offshore islets: and great scuba diving-which is really the main reason to come. Despite these attractions, there are rarely more than a few dozen tourists on the island at any one time, and facilities are extremely limited, so you should book ahead for beach side accommodation and diving.

Pemba’s climate is wetter than Ungujas .The long rains (masika), during which it can pour constantly for weeks, fall between April and June, with May often completely washed out, as well as windy. The short rains (vuli), generally brief bursts early in the morning and again in the afternoon, supposedly fall between Mid-October and end-November, but September can be very wet, too, as can December .Unless you’re diving ,the rains aren’t an ideal time to be around .Nor is Ramadan ,when eating by day is quite impossible.

Chake Chake & Around

Pemba’s capital CHAKE CHAKE (“Chake “for short) is the most interesting of the islands towns, and even has a modest museum in an Omani fortress. Unless you’re diving ,in which case its best to base yourself at Ras Kogomasha ,Chake Chake is the most destinations, and a couple of affordable tour companies. A special treat, especially for snorkelers, is Misali Island- an unspoilt gem of a place said to be the spot where Captain Kidd buried his loot. Another good excursion is to Pujini, for its medieval tyrants ruined citadel.

Arrival & Accommodation Pemba

For information on getting into town from the airport. Arriving by daladala from Wete or Mkoani, youll be dropped either at the junction by the Esso petrol station, or at the stand behind the market. Be wary of anyone offering their services as guides: reports of theft have circulated in the past, and seeing as Chakes tour companies are reasonably priced, theres little sense in taking a risk. Bucket showers are the norm in Chake Chakes hotels, as the water supply, pumped from bore holes, depends on the sorry antics of Zanzibar’s Electricity Company.

Evergreen Hotel Facing peoples Bank of Zanzibar. A new, three-storey block with eight en-suite rooms (including one twin) ,with big nets and fans ,but a very musty smell during the rains, and unsavoury bathrooms. You can minimize this unpleasantness by getting one of the three rooms with a balcony. Restaurant on top.BB.

Le-Tavern Hotel Just north of Evergreen Hotel .This modern two-storey place is a reasonable option, friendly if you can surmount the language barrier and with small but clean rooms, either en suite or with shared bathrooms .The better rooms have views over town .During Ramadan ,the restaurant on top is closed ,so no breakfast.BB

Pemba Clove Inn 550km west of the peoples Bank of Zanzibar. Easily the towns best lodging, a new blue-glass business-class affair down by the mangrove swamp. There are two types of room, both a/c : most of the “Standard” ones are at the back and are loud if the generator kicks in; quieter are the “Deluxe” rooms at the front overlooking the mangroves, which have four-poster beds and box nets ,fans as well as a/c, furniture made from stripy coconut woodland satellite TV. Good restaurant, internet access, and tours can be arranged.BB

Pemba island Hotel 50kmwest of the Peoples Bank Zanzibar. A clean ,modern four-storey building with en suite rooms ( smallish mosquito nets) ; those with two beds have better bathrooms .All have a/c ,fan, fridge and satellite TV.Theres also a restaurant ,no alcohol.BB

Chake Chake Town

Chake Chake has a nicely relaxed atmosphere, and people are genuinely pleased – and curious –too see tourists looking around. The town’s liveliest point is its market ( daily from 7am; busiest Mon and Fri) where ,aside from herbs and spices ,you can buy aromatic essential oils, and tasty ,if expensive ,clove honey. Also on offer are colourfully painted straw plate-covers that look like hats, and aromatic halua-a sticky boiled goo (think Turkish Delight) inherited from the Omanis .Following the narrow road south of the market brings you to the Chief Ministers Office, a bizarre, pale blue building dominated by around tower studded with protruding hollow cylinders,that perhaps aptly resemble the suckers on octopus tentacles. Opposite is the glorious colonial-era Omani Court House, with an impressive carved door and a clock tower that only tells the time twice a day.

Continuing along the same street and turning right at the junction brings you to the diminutive Nanzim Fort, built in the eighteenth century by the Omanis but incorporating the foundations of a Portuguese fortress built in 1594 ( the square towers are the clue, as Omanis preferred round ones). Much of the fort was demolished in the early 1900s; part of what’s left is a charming museum ( Mon-Fri 8.30am -4.30pm, Sat & Sun 9am -4pm) .There are just three small rooms, but the displays –in English and Kiswahili –are very well done ,and cover archaeology ,seafaring, and the role of Zanzibar’s rulers in relation to Pemba.

For something completely different, try an evening out at Pemba Cinema on the main road south. Mind –bogglingly dilapidated in appearance ,this is not just Zanzibar’s but Tanzania’s very last small cinema, and still manages to get hold of real celluloid: Bollywood weekday evenings (6pm) ,American B-movies on weekends .Be patient while the projectionist changes reels, as he needs to manually rewind the first before popping on the second.

You can get into Zanzibar by road and air from any of the East Africa states. But due to bad roads the safest way to travel is by air and there are airlines and charter companies operating scheduled and non-scheduled passenger flights into and out of Zanzibar and entire Tanzania. On scheduled flights are operated on request and comes in handy when your schedule can not match the scheduled flights. These are private air charter flights which provide air ambulance flights, filming flights, aerial survey and photography flights, scenic flights, sight seeing flights, emergency medical evacuation flights, and helicopter flights. International scheduled passenger flights arrive in Zanzibar via Mombasa Kenya, Nairobi Kenya, Daresaalam, Kilimanjaro, Kigali, and Entebbe to drop and pick passengers and there are flights from within East Africa that feed the town with tourists who have been from other tourists destinations in East Africa. Within Tanzania we have daily air safari flights hopping into game reserves, national parks and major cities to beaches and islands, these flights operates from Dar, Kilimanjaro, Arusha, and Mwanza and into the beaches, islands and other tourist’s destinations in Tanzania.

For those tourists who loves bursting on the beach and like tourism activities like diving and snorkeling, cubs diving, boat riding, windsurfing, fishing and swimming then Pemba is the right holiday destination for you. Transport should not be your worry as there is air and road transport available based on budget and luxury. air safari flights ,private air charter flights, helicopter flights are available depending with the number of people travelling and hotels are available in superior rooms, standard rooms,Deluxe,en suites, double rooms, single rooms, ripple rooms,cottages,apartments,safari lodges, tented camps, boarding & lodgings and camping safaris.

Anthony Mmeri is the Editor and Tours Director at Wings Over Africa Safaris Limited. <br><a href='http://www.wingsoverafrica-aviation.com’> This is a Safari Holiday Expert Company that specializes on Tanzania Holiday Safaris | Scheduled & Non-Scheduled Flights Pemba Island Tanzania </a> The website has guided thousands of travelers to achieve their dream holiday. For more information and guidance, visit the site at http://www.wingsoverafrica-aviation.com/index.php/safaris-east-africa/tanzania-tour-packages.html </a>